A Roman classic and, like so many of those dishes, smacking of garlic, chile, and bay. You can serve this with just bread, of course, or precede it with a pasta dish or soup.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

　　2 or more dried red chiles, like serrano

　　3 to 4 pounds spareribs, cut into individual ribs, excess fat removed

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　3 bay leaves

　　1 head of Savoy or green cabbage, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds, cored and shredded

　　1 cup dry white wine

　　Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put the olive oil in a large deep skillet or flameproof casserole with a lid and place over high heat. A minute later, add the garlic and chiles. When they sizzle, add the ribs, meatiest side down; sprinkle with salt and pepper and add the bay leaves. Cook, more or less undisturbed, adjusting the heat so the meat browns nicely, for 5 to 10 minutes. Turn the ribs and brown again. Transfer the ribs to a plate.

　　

Step 2

Pour off any excess fat and add the cabbage and some more salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it browns a bit, then add the wine and stir to release any brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Return the ribs to the pot; adjust the heat so the mixture simmers steadily but not violently, then cover.

　　

Step 3

Cook, checking occasionally to make sure the mixture does not dry out (if it does, add a little more white wine or water). When the ribs are tender and the cabbage is very soft—this will take at least 45 minutes and possibly up to an hour—uncover the skillet. If the mixture is soupy, turn the heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally and carefully, until it is more of a moist stew. Garnish and serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to a day before reheating.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.