Oven-baked ribs, which were once the standard, are now uncommon, because everyone thinks grilled ribs are the thing. But these are delicious, great with rice or polenta, and far easier than grilling. But if you like, you can use this sauce for grilling, too: parboil the ribs in water until nearly tender, then grill them, basting with the sauce, until they are nicely browned. Other cuts of meat you can use here: chunks of pork shoulder, short ribs (which will need much more time), bone-in chicken thighs (which will cook much more quickly).

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　3 to 4 pounds spareribs, more or less, separated into individual ribs

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 tablespoon minced garlic

　　1 medium onion, peeled and quartered

　　2 teaspoons fresh oregano or marjoram leaves

　　1 tablespoon pimentón (page 14) or 1 dried chipotle chile, soaked in hot water to soften, then minced

　　2 cups chopped tomatoes with their liquid (canned are fine)

　　1 tablespoon wine vinegar

　　

Step 1

Place a large deep skillet with a lid over medium-high heat and add the ribs. Cook, turning as necessary and sprinkling with salt and pepper, until they are well browned, at least 10 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

　　

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 350° F. Turn the heat under the pan to medium and add the garlic, onion, oregano, more salt and pepper, and pimentón. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is well softened, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and vinegar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to soften, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the ribs, cover, and put the pan in the oven.

　　

Step 3

Cook until the ribs are tender and just about falling from the bone, an hour or more. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days; reheat gently before serving.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.