A simple little thing (the hardest part is cleaning the leeks) but delicious. The sweetness of the carrots really comes through, and the reserved olive oil adds a nice touch. Good with sautéed or roast poultry or meats. Other vegetables you can prepare this way: Belgian endive (cut in half the long way), bok choy, and chard are all good.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　4 large or 8 medium leeks, about 2 pounds

　　1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

　　2 small carrots, roughly chopped

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1/4 cup white long-grain rice

　　Juice of 1/2 lemon

　　

Step 1

Trim the hard green parts from the leeks; split in half from about an inch below the root end (leave this intact for now) to the leafy end. Carefully wash between all the layers, removing all traces of sand. Cut off the root end and cut the leeks into 4-inch sections.

　　

Step 2

Put all but a tablespoon of the oil in a skillet with a lid or a saucepan large enough to hold the leeks in one layer. Turn the heat to medium. When the oil is hot, add the leeks and carrots, along with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and cook for about 25 minutes, turning occasionally, until the leeks are tender. Your goal is not to brown the leeks but to soften them; if they brown a little, however, that’s fine.

　　

Step 3

Add the rice and 1 1/2 cups of water, cover, and adjust the heat so the mixture simmers. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the water is absorbed; the mixture should be moist but not soupy. Serve hot, at room temperature, or cold (this will keep well, covered and refrigerated, for a day, and can be reheated). Just before serving, drizzle with the remaining olive oil and the lemon juice.

　　

Braised Leeks with Olives

Step 4

In step 2, omit the carrots. In step 3, omit the rice and add 1/2 cup pitted black olives, like Kalamatas. Use only 1/2 cup liquid and cook for only 5 to 10 minutes, until hot. Add the lemon juice at the end.

　　

Braised Leeks with Egg-Lemon Sauce

Step 5

You can use this formula with almost any braised vegetable: When the leeks are done, beat 2 eggs in a bowl with the minced or grated zest and juice of a lemon; still beating, add about 1/2 cup of the leek-cooking liquid. Gradually add the remaining cooking liquid, beating all the while. Dress the leeks with this sauce and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.