This popular winter stew is often served on special occasions, but I think its very nature makes an occasion special. Chestnuts, so rarely used in cooking here, add a rich and subtle sweetness to the dish. Fresh chestnuts are best, but frozen chestnuts are almost as good, and Asian markets carry dried chestnuts that are suitable as well. Forget canned chestnuts, though—they’re too soft to hold up to the long cooking. Like most braises, this is even better the second day, so feel free to make it in advance.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1/4 cup dried black Chinese mushrooms

　　2 tablespoons corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil

　　2 scallions, trimmed and chopped

　　One 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

　　1 chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces, or 2 1/2 to 3 pounds chicken parts, trimmed of excess fat

　　1/4 cup soy sauce

　　2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

　　2 tablespoons sugar

　　1 cup fresh chestnuts, boiled or roasted and peeled (page 453), or 1 cup frozen chestnuts, thawed, or 1/2 cup dried Chinese chestnuts, soaked in hot water for 3 hours

　　

Step 1

Put the mushrooms in a bowl or measuring cup and cover with boiling water. Let sit until soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Put the oil in a large, deep skillet or flameproof casserole, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. A minute later, add the scallions and ginger and cook, stirring once or twice, for about 30 seconds. Add the drained mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms and spices with a slotted spoon to a plate and set aside.

　　

Step 2

Put the chicken pieces in the skillet, skin side down, and brown well, rotating and turning the pieces as necessary, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the mushrooms and spices to the pan along with the soy sauce, wine, and sugar.

　　

Step 3

Add enough water just to cover the chicken, about 2 cups, and then the chestnuts. Stir well, cover, and turn the heat to low. Simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the chicken and chestnuts are tender.

　　

Step 4

If the sauce has not thickened to a stewlike consistency, raise the heat and cook off some of the liquid as necessary. Serve hot with rice or cover and refrigerate overnight before reheating (it may be necessary to add a little water to thin the sauce).

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.