Ingredients

serves 8

　　2 sets calf’s brains or 4 sets lamb’s brains

　　Salt

　　4 teaspoons wine vinegar

　　3 cloves garlic, chopped

　　3 tablespoons oil

　　1 pound tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or a 14-ounce can tomatoes, chopped

　　2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

　　1 teaspoon paprika

　　Pinch of ground chili pepper, to taste

　　1 teaspoon ground cumin

　　Juice of 1/2 lemon

　　Peel of 1/2 preserved lemon (page 459), chopped up

　　

Step 1

Soak the brains for 1 hour in water acidulated with 1 tablespoon of the vinegar. Remove the thin membranes in which they are encased and wash the brains under cold running water. Drop the brains into boiling salted water acidulated with the remaining teaspoon of vinegar, and simmer for about 3 minutes. Remove, and drain thoroughly, then cut each in 2 or 4 pieces.

　　

Step 2

Fry the garlic in the oil in a large pan until it just begins to color. Add the peeled tomatoes and the rest of the ingredients (except the brains) and simmer for a few minutes. Then drop in the brains and cook gently a further 15 minutes. As good cold as it is hot.

　　The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Copyright © 2000Knopf