Bouillabaisse, the Mediterranean fish stew that is more difficult to spell than to prepare, is traditionally neither an idée fixe nor the centerpiece of a grand bouffe, but a spur-of-the-moment combination of the day’s catch. The key to bouillabaisse is a variety of good fish of different types, so use this recipe as a set of guidelines rather than strict dogma and don’t worry about duplicating the exact types or quantities of fish.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 tablespoon olive oil

　　1 medium onion, roughly chopped

　　Strips of zest from 1 navel or other orange

　　1 teaspoon fennel seeds

　　Pinch of saffron threads (optional)

　　1 small dried chile, or a pinch of cayenne, or to taste

　　2 cups chopped tomatoes

　　1/2 to 3/4 pound monkfish, catfish, or blackfish, cut into 1-inch cubes

　　1 1/2 pounds hardshell (littleneck) clams, cockles, or mussels, well washed

　　1/2 to 3/4 pound shrimp, peeled and, if you like, deveined, or scallops, cut into bite-sized pieces if necessary

　　1/2 to 3/4 pound cod or other delicate white-fleshed fish, cut into 6 large chunks

　　1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

　　1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley

　　

Step 1

Put the olive oil in a casserole or large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the zest, fennel, saffron if you’re using it, and chile and cook for about a minute. Add the tomatoes and turn the heat to medium-high. When the mixture boils, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture becomes saucelike, 10 to 15 minutes. (You can prepare the dish several hours in advance up to this point; cover and set aside until you’re ready to eat.)

　　

Step 2

Add the monkfish and raise the heat to medium-high. When the mixture begins to boil, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is just about tender, 10 minutes or so.

　　

Step 3

Add the clams, raise the heat to high, and stir. When the mixture boils, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the clams begin to open, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the shrimp and white fish, stir, and cover; cook, stirring gently once or twice, until the white fish is just about done (a thin-bladed knife will pierce it with little resistance), about 5 minutes. (If the mixture is very thick—there should be some broth—add a cup or so of hot water.) Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the parsley and serve, with crusty bread.

　　From Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times by Mark Bittman Copyright (c) 2007 by Mark Bittman Published by Broadway Books.Mark Bittman is the author of the blockbuster Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.