Along with Spanish food in general, these have become increasingly popular in the States, and they’re fun, rewarding, and easy to make at home. Of course, the key is to begin with superfresh anchovies, and we are finally seeing more of these. (You can use the same method with fresh thin fillets of mackerel, a more common fish, or with smelts, which can be handled the same way as the anchovies.) These are good served on buttered toast or crackers and passed as a snack. You might wonder why your boquerones are not as white as those sold in restaurants; it’s because you’re not using a bleaching agent.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6 or more servings

　　1 to 1 1/2 pounds fresh anchovies

　　1 cup white wine vinegar

　　Salt

　　1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

　　1 teaspoon minced garlic, optional

　　Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　Lemon wedges

　　

Step 1

To fillet the anchovies, grasp the body just behind the head and pull down on the head; most of the innards will come out along with it. Run your thumb along the belly flap, tearing the fish open all the way to the tail and removing any remaining innards. Then grab the backbone between your thumb and forefinger and gently pull it out. Remove any spiny fin material and drop the fillet into a bowl of ice water.

　　

Step 2

Rinse and dry the anchovies, then place them in a narrow bowl. Add the vinegar and a large pinch of salt and stir. Cover and marinate for about 24 hours. Drain, then sprinkle with salt, oil, garlic if you like, and parsley. You can refrigerate them at this point for up to a few days. Serve with lemon wedges.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.