In the summer, we’d sit on the porch shelling the black-eyed peas that Dede had picked that morning. The purple hulls dyed our fingers smoky violet. I’ve used frozen black-eyed peas to prepare this soup, but don’t use canned, as they are too soft. If using frozen peas, reduce the cooking time according to the package instructions or until the peas are tender. Note that the dried peas must soak overnight or have a quick soak. Don’t skip the essential step of simmering the ham hocks in the chicken stock. The flavor and aroma are what makes this soup extraordinary.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　2 cups dried black-eyed peas, washed and picked over for stones

　　4 to 6 cups chicken stock (page 227) or low-fat, reduced-sodium chicken broth, plus more if necessary

　　2 smoked ham hocks

　　1 tablespoon canola oil

　　1 onion, preferably Vidalia, chopped

　　2 carrots, chopped

　　2 stalks celery, chopped

　　2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped

　　1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

　　1 bunch collards, tough stems removed and discarded, leaves very thinly sliced in chiffonade (see page 197)

　　Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Place the peas in a large bowl and add water to cover. Soak overnight. Or place the peas in a large pot of water and bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from the heat and set aside for 1 hour. Discard any floating peas and drain before cooking.

　　

Step 2

In a pot, bring the stock and the ham hocks to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to low and simmer until the flavors have married, at least 30 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and cook until soft and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 45 to 60 seconds. Drain the peas and add to the pot. Add the red pepper flakes and ham hocks with stock to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat to low, and simmer until the peas are tender, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

　　

Step 4

Just before serving, bring the soup to a boil over high heat. Add the collards and stir to combine. Cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Ladle into warmed bowls and serve immediately.

　　From Bon Appétit, Y’all: Recipes and Stories From Three Generations of Southern Cooking, © 2008 by Virginia Willis. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press. Buy the full book from Amazon or Abe Books.