This dish was inspired by one of my favorite Italian meals, bistecca fiorentina, a huge, rare grilled steak dressed simply with salt and lemon juice. Instead of the traditional T-bone steak served in a Tuscan ristorante, I opted for tri-tip, a less expensive but super-flavorful cut from the triangular end of the sirloin, popular in the central coast region of California.

　　

Ingredients

3 pounds prime beef tri-tip or steak of your choice

　　1 tablespoon chopped rosemary

　　1 teaspoon thinly sliced chiles de árbol

　　2 lemons, zested

　　1 tablespoon cracked black pepper

　　2 scant tablespoons fleur de sel

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　Peperonata (recipe follows)

　　1 bunch arugula, cleaned

　　2 to 3 tablespoons super-good extra-virgin olive oil

　　Baked ricotta (recipe follows)

　　

Peperonata

4 large sweet peppers (about 1 3/4 pounds)

　　5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　3 cups sliced red onion

　　1 tablespoon thyme leaves

　　2 tablespoons salt-packed capers, soaked and drained

　　3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

　　2 tablespoons oregano leaves

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Baked Ricotta

3 cups fresh whole milk ricotta cheese (1 1/3 pounds)

　　6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 1/2 teaspoons thyme leaves

　　1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　1/4 teaspoon diagonally sliced chile de árbol

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　

Step 1

Trim the beef of excess fat, leaving a 1/4-inch-thick cap. Season with the rosemary, sliced chile, lemon zest, and cracked black pepper and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

　　

Step 2

Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before cooking, and remove the tri-tip from the refrigerator to come to room temperature. After 10 minutes, season the meat with the fleur de sel, and drizzle it with the olive oil.

　　

Step 3

When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, place the tri-tip, fat side down, on a relatively cool part of the grill, away from direct heat. (Because it’s a larger piece of meat, you’ll need to cook it slowly, so it’s not charred on the outside and raw on the inside. Cook the steak over nondirect medium-low heat, to render the fat, get a nice crust, and cook it through evenly.) Cook about 15 minutes, rotating the meat to caramelize it well. Move the meat away from the flames if they flare up. Turn the tri-tip over, and cook another 10 minutes or so, until medium-rare. A meat thermometer inserted into the center of the tri-tip should read 120°F to 125°F.

　　

Step 4

Rest the steak on a wire rack set on a baking sheet for 8 to 10 minutes.

　　

Step 5

Spoon the hot peperonata onto a large warm platter and scatter the arugula over the top. Slice the steak against the grain, and arrange it over the peppers. Squeeze a generous amount of lemon juice over the steak, and drizzle it with a few tablespoons of super-good olive oil. Serve the gratin dish of baked ricotta on the side.

　　

Peperonata

Step 6

Cut the peppers in half lengthwise and remove the stems, seeds, and membranes. Thinly slice the peppers lengthwise. Heat a very large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (You may have to use two pans or do this in two batches to avoid overcrowding.) Swirl in 3 tablespoons olive oil and wait 1 minute. Add the onion, peppers, thyme, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Sauté over high heat 5 to 6 minutes, tossing often, until the peppers soften. (They should still have a little crunch to them but be tender.)

　　

Step 7

Add the capers and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan, cook another minute, and transfer the peppers to a shallow nonreactive dish. Turn the heat off, add the vinegar, and reduce by half. The residual heat should be enough to reduce this small amount of vinegar. Use a rubber spatula to scrape all the vinegar over the peppers. Add the oregano, and toss well to combine. The heat of the peppers will help release the flavor of the oregano. Taste for seasoning.

　　

Baked Ricotta

Step 8

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

　　

Step 9

Place the ricotta in a large bowl, and stir in 5 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon thyme, the chopped parsley, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

　　

Step 10

Transfer the ricotta to an 8-inch gratin dish or cazuela. Gently press the top of the cheese with your fingers to make slight indentations, and decorate the ricotta with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon thyme and the sliced chile. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon olive oil over the top, and bake 30 to 40 minutes, until golden brown on top.

　　

Note

Step 11

You can certainly substitute your favorite steak in this recipe, although the cooking time may be different. Marinate the meat the night before. You can set up the ricotta ahead of time and put it in the oven to bake when you light the grill. You can also make the peperonata ahead of time and heat it up just before serving.

　　Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved..Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz.Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles.](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)