“Hunter’s stew” is probably one of the oldest and most popular dishes in Eastern Europe. Like cassoulet and bouillabaisse, it is one of those preparations that can be made with whatever is on hand—you most often see it with venison—and may be a casual dish that can be stored and reheated many times (and can accommodate leftovers) or something served to beloved guests on holy days. Traditionally, bigos took three days to make, but there’s no need to stick to that tradition; it’s just as good when made all at once. Inexpensive dried black or shiitake mushrooms (sold at most Asian markets) are good here; pricier porcini are better. Or use a combination of dried and fresh mushrooms. Serve with rye bread. Other cuts of meat you can use here: anything—pork, veal, lamb, venison, duck, goose, or a combination; it’s a mishmash.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1/4 pound bacon or salt pork, roughly chopped

　　1/4 pound sausage, optional

　　1 1/2 pounds not-too-lean beef chuck or brisket, cut into small cubes

　　1 onion, chopped

　　2 pounds sauerkraut, fresh or packaged in plastic

　　1 ounce dried black mushrooms, soaked and sliced, liquid reserved

　　1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds

　　1/2 teaspoon black pepper

　　1 tablespoon sugar

　　1/2 cup Madeira or other sweet wine

　　

Step 1

Heat a Dutch oven or heavy flameproof casserole with a lid over medium-high heat and add the bacon. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the fat is rendered, then add the sausage if you’re using it and the meat and brown. Remove the bacon, sausage, and meat with a slotted spoon and set aside.

　　

Step 2

Lower the heat to medium and cook the onion in the fat, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the sauerkraut,mushrooms, mushroom liquid, caraway seeds, pepper, and sugar. Stir to combine and add just enough water to barely cover. Cover, turn the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes.

　　

Step 3

Return the meat to the pan and add the wine. Cover and simmer for an hour, or until the meat is tender (lamb, pork, and veal will probably take longer than beef). Serve or cool to room temperature and refrigerate, then reheat before serving.

　　

Bigos with Fresh Cabbage

Step 4

Omit the sauerkraut from step 2 and substitute one 2-pound head of fresh cabbage, cored and thinly sliced, 3 tablespoons white vinegar, and 2 tart apples, peeled and sliced.

　　

Bigos with Prunes

Step 5

For a sweeter stew, substitute 1/2 pound diced pitted prunes for the dried mushrooms. You do not need to soak the prunes. Add them to the bigos when you would have added the mushrooms.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.