Ingredients

makes 2 cups

　　2 cups milk

　　Pinch of salt

　　Pinch of freshly ground white pepper

　　Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

　　1 bay leaf

　　1 1/2 tablespoons butter

　　2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

　　2 generous tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano

　　

Step 1

Pour the milk into a saucepan; add the seasonings and bay leaf. Bring almost to the boil and keep hot.

　　

Step 2

Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. When the butter starts foaming, dump in the flour, and whisk to form a smooth paste or roux. Keep whisking and cooking 3 to 4 minutes, until the roux darkens slightly.

　　

Step 3

Pour in the hot milk in a stream, stirring to incorporate the roux into it. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce starts to boil. Adjust the heat to keep a steady perking until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes.

　　

Step 4

Pour the sauce through a fine sieve, and whisk in the grated cheese.

　　

Step 5

Cover with plastic wrap, pressed right on the surface of the sauce, and let it cool. Besciamella can remain at room temperature for a few hours. Otherwise, refrigerate and use it within 3 or 4 days. I don’t recommend freezing besciamella, as it becomes grainy.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.