Beets are earthy and sweet; horseradish is earthy and seismic; the combination is fortuitous. Fresh horseradish is best, but you can substitute prepared horseradish if necessary (make sure the jar hasn’t been opened for too long, or the horseradish will have lost its intensity). This salad is best after marinating in the refrigerator for a day or two, so prepare it ahead of time if you think of it.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　1 pound beets, or a little more, well washed

　　One 2-inch piece fresh horseradish, peeled and grated, or 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, or to taste

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　3 tablespoons corn, grapeseed, or other neutral oil

　　1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar

　　2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Put the beets, still wet, in a roasting pan and cover with foil. Bake until soft, about 45 minutes (use a thin-bladed knife to pierce through the foil and into the beets to test for doneness). Remove the beets, then allow them to cool before peeling and slicing into rounds 1/2 inch thick. (You can cook the beets a day or two in advance if you like; cut them up at the last minute.)

　　

Step 2

In a blender or bowl, whisk together all the remaining ingredients except the chives until creamy. Toss the mixture with the beets, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Cover and refrigerate or serve, garnished with the chives.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.