Though you occasionally see this technique in other cuisines, I know of nowhere but Vietnam where caramelized sugar is used as the basis for a savory sauce in such a wide variety of dishes. You see it with pork, beef, shrimp, finfish, chicken, and even frog. You see it in fancy urban restaurants and in rural three-sided structures. Completed by plenty of onions and black pepper, the result is wickedly forceful, decidedly delicious, and, in the sauce’s dark brown glossiness, downright gorgeous, an astonishing creation given the number of ingredients and the time it requires. See page 500 for information on Asian fish sauces like nam pla. Other cuts of meat you can use here: boneless chicken thighs, pork steaks cut from the loin—both of which will require longer cooking times—or any fish or shrimp (see Fish Fillets Poached in Caramel Sauce, page 232). Sticky Rice (page 508) is not entirely traditional here, but it’s great, as is any other plain rice dish. A strong-flavored salad (like Green Papaya Salad, page 198, but without the shrimp) would round things out perfectly.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　4 filets mignons, each at least 1 inch thick

　　1 cup sugar

　　1/2 cup nam pla, or to taste

　　1 large onion, sliced into half-moons

　　1 teaspoon black pepper, or more to taste

　　

Step 1

Heat a 10-inch skillet over high heat, then brown the meat well on both sides; it won’t take more than a minute or two per side. Turn off the heat and transfer the steaks to a plate.

　　

Step 2

A minute later, add the sugar to the pan and turn the heat to medium. Cook, occasionally shaking the pan gently, until the sugar liquefies and begins to bubble. When the sugar is all liquid, cook for another minute or so, until it darkens; turn off the heat. Mix the nam pla with 1/2 cup water; carefully, and at arm’s length, add the liquid and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring constantly, until the caramel melts into the liquid. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, about 5 minutes. Stir in any liquid that has accumulated around the meat.

　　

Step 3

Stir in the black pepper and return the meat to the pan. Cook over medium heat, turning the meat once in a while, until it is done to your liking (5 to 8 minutes for medium-rare). Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve, spooning a bit of the onion and sauce over each steak.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.