I dub my Italianate beef meatballs with a nugget of cheese in the center polpette, which in Italian means “round food”—as in meatball, fish ball, rice ball—because it is a fun word to say and it describes their jolly, amenable nature. They accommodate meatball needs from cocktail-size tidbits for dipping into cherry tomato chutney (page 17) to large balls bouncing in a hearty red pasta sauce (page 73).

　　

Ingredients

makes 2 pounds

　　1/3 cup fresh bread crumbs (page 4)

　　1/4 cup milk

　　1 1/2 pounds ground beef

　　1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped yellow or white onion

　　2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

　　1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

　　1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

　　Scant 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

　　1 large egg

　　1/2 cup shredded Fontina, provolone, or other melting cheese, shredded on the large holes of a box grater

　　

Step 1

Combine the bread crumbs and milk in a medium bowl and let soak for 5 minutes. Add all the remaining ingredients except the cheese, and knead with your hands until thoroughly blended. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to overnight, to firm the meat and meld the flavors.

　　

Step 2

To form the meatballs, roll them into 1- to 2-inch balls, depending on how you are going to use them. Press an indentation into the center of each ball, tuck in 1/2 to 1 teaspoon or so of the cheese, and then press the meat mixture over the indentation, enclosing the cheese in the center.

　　

Step 3

Sauté, grill, or braise, or cook as directed in individual recipes. (The uncooked meatballs will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days; they do not freeze well.)

　　Sausage