This simple soup embodies the Vietnamese canh tradition. The peppery qualities of Vietnamese coriander (rau ram), one of the cuisine’s most popular herbs, are fully displayed, with its headiness standing up well to the beef. Traditionally, hand-minced beef was used, but ground beef is both convenient and fully acceptable. For the best beef flavor, use the tastiest ground beef available, such as what you would select for a good hamburger. Natural, organic, or grass-fed beef is great. Also, remember that ground beef with a little fat, typically chuck, will add richness to the broth.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes

　　1 tablespoon canola or other neutral oil

　　1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced

　　2/3 pound hand-minced beef steak (page 69) or ground beef, preferably chuck, coarsely chopped to loosen

　　1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce

　　3/4 teaspoon salt

　　7 cups water

　　1/3 cup chopped fresh Vietnamese coriander leaves

　　Black pepper

　　

Step 1

In a 3- or 4-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, or until fragrant and soft. Add the beef and wield chopsticks or use a spoon to move it around the pan so that it breaks up into small pieces. This will make it possible to distribute the beef evenly among the bowls when serving. When the beef turns color, after about 2 minutes, add the fish sauce and salt and cook for 1 minute to develop the flavors.

　　

Step 2

Add the water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil, using a ladle to skim and discard any scum that rises to the surface. Lower the heat to simmer and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the broth has reduced by about one-fifth. Taste to make sure the flavors have concentrated sufficiently to produce a rich broth. If they haven’t, continue to simmer for a few more minutes. If you are not serving the soup right away, turn off the heat and cover.

　　

Step 3

Just before serving, return the soup to a simmer. Taste and add extra salt or fish sauce, if necessary. Turn off the heat, add the Vietnamese coriander, and give the soup a stir to wilt the herb. Ladle into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the pepper. Serve immediately.

　　Cooks' Note

　　For beef and bean sprout soup (canh thịt bo nau gia), omit the Vietnamese coriander and add 1 1/2 cups bean sprouts in the last step once the soup is again at a simmer. As soon as the sprouts wilt, after about 30 seconds, turn off the heat. You want to leave a little crunch. Garnish with chopped cilantro.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.