Nils Noren, executive chef at restaurant Aquavit, in New York, pairs this smoky hot drink with venison, but it works well with almost any wintry game preparation. He uses Assam tea, a full-bodied brew from India. For a richer, molasseslike flavor, use muscovado sugar.

Ingredients

　　2 cups apple juice

　　2 cups water

　　1/4 cup Assam tea leaves

　　2 fresh bay leaves (see Tip, below)

　　4 cinnamon sticks

　　sugar to taste

　　In heavy medium saucepan over medium heat, heat apple juice and water until simmering. Remove from heat and add tea leaves, bay leaves, and cinnamon sticks. Steep 4 minutes, strain into mugs, and add sugar to taste. Serve immediately.

　　Chef's Tip:

　　Fresh bay leaves are available at many gourmet markets.