It’s hard to imagine five minutes in the kitchen better spent than those spent making vinaigrette, the closest thing to an all-purpose sauce. The standard ratio for making vinaigrette is three parts oil to one part vinegar, but because the vinegars I use are mild and extra virgin olive oil is quite assertive, I usually wind up at about two parts oil to one part vinegar, or even a little stronger. Somewhere in that range you’re going to find a home for your own taste; start by using a ratio of three to one and taste, adding more vinegar until you’re happy. (You may even prefer more vinegar than olive oil; there’s nothing wrong with that.) Be sure to use good wine vinegar; balsamic and sherry vinegars, while delicious, are too dominant for some salads, fine for others. Lemon juice is a fine substitute, but because it is less acidic than most vinegars—3 or 4 percent compared to 6 or 7 percent—you will need more of it. The ingredients may be combined with a spoon, a fork, a whisk, or a blender. Hand tools give you an unconvincing emulsion that must be used immediately. Blenders produce vinaigrettes that very much resemble thin mayonnaise in color and thickness—without using egg. They also dispose of the job of mincing the shallot; just peel, chop, and dump it into the container at the last minute (if you add it earlier, it will be pureed, depriving you of the pleasure of its distinctive crunch). This is best made fresh but will keep, refrigerated, for a few days. Bring it back to room temperature and whisk briefly before using it.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 2/3 cup

　　1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

　　3 tablespoons or more good-quality wine vinegar

　　Salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　1 heaping teaspoon Dijon mustard

　　1 large shallot (about 1 ounce), peeled and cut into chunks

　　

Step 1

Combine all ingredients except the shallot in a blender and turn the machine on; a creamy emulsion will form within 30 seconds. Taste and add more vinegar, a teaspoon or two at a time, until the balance tastes right to you.

　　

Step 2

Add the shallot and turn the machine on and off a few times until the shallot is minced within the dressing. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

　　

Variations

Step 3

You can integrate almost anything that appeals to you into your vinaigrette. Some quick ideas, many of which may be combined:

　　

Step 4

Any fresh or dried herb, fresh by the teaspoon or tablespoon, dried by the pinch

　　

Step 5

Minced fresh garlic and/or peeled ginger to taste

　　

Step 6

Soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, meat or vegetable stock, or other liquid seasonings, as much as 1 tablespoon

　　

Step 7

Honey or other sweeteners to taste

　　

Step 8

Whole-grain or dry mustard to taste

　　

Step 9

Cayenne or hot red pepper flakes, minced fresh hot chiles, or grated or prepared horseradish to taste

　　

Step 10

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or other hard cheese, or crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese, at least 1 tablespoon

　　

Step 11

Capers or minced pickles, preferably cornichons, at least 1 tablespoon

　　

Step 12

Sour cream, yogurt, or pureed soft tofu, about 2 tablespoons

　　

Step 13

Ground spices, such as curry powder, five-spice powder, or nutmeg, in very small quantities

　　From Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times by Mark Bittman Copyright (c) 2007 by Mark Bittman Published by Broadway Books.Mark Bittman is the author of the blockbuster Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.