Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are from How to Grill, by Steven Raichlen. To read more about Raichlen and barbecue, go to our feature The Best Barbecue in the U.S.A.

　　OK, this is ground zero—the ur American barbecue rub. Use it on ribs, pork shoulders, chickens—anything you want to taste like American barbecue. Use 2 to 3 teaspoons per pound of meat. A 4-pound chicken will take 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons. You'll find hickory-smoked salt available in the spice rack of most supermarkets. To make a spicier rub, substitute hot paprika for some or all of the sweet paprika.

Ingredients

　　1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar

　　1/4 cup sweet paprika

　　3 tablespoons black pepper

　　3 tablespoons coarse salt

　　1 tablespoon hickory-smoked salt or more coarse salt

　　2 teaspoons garlic powder

　　2 teaspoons onion powder

　　2 teaspoon celery seeds

　　1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

　　Combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir to mix. (Actually, your hands work better for mixing than a spoon or whisk does. Use your fingers to break up any lump of brown sugar.) Store the rub in an airtight jar away from heat or light; it will keep for at least 6 months.

　　Excerpted from How to Grill (Workman) Copyright 2001 by Steven Raichlen