I say fontina because that is what I had in the kitchen last time I made this—it’s a fondue cheese that melts sublimely and doesn’t overpower the leeks. But Taleggio, another milky Italian, would be just fine, too.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 2

　　baking potatoes – 2, about 12 ounces (350g) each

　　leeks – 2 or 3

　　butter – a thick slice

　　fontina – 3 to 4 ounces (90 to 120g), coarsely grated, or Taleggio, cut into thin slices

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Scrub the potatoes, prick them with a fork or insert a metal skewer in them, then while they are still damp, dust them lightly with sea salt. Let sit to dry for a few minutes, then bake until the skin is crisp and the inside soft and fluffy—a matter of thirty-five minutes to an hour, depending on the potato variety.

　　

Step 2

Half an hour or so before you expect the potatoes to be ready, start cooking the leeks (it is worth remembering that baked potatoes are good natured, so a few minutes either way won’t hurt). Split the leeks in half, wash them thoroughly, then cut them into finger-thick slices. Melt half the butter in a heavy pan, add the leeks, and let them cook slowly over low heat until they are soft and translucent. This will take longer than you might think, as much as fifteen or twenty minutes to soften them completely. An occasional stir will prevent them browning.

　　

Step 3

Split the potatoes in half and scoop the flesh into a bowl, then drop in the remaining butter and most of the cheese, and beat to a creamy mass with a wooden spoon or electric mixer. Taste and season with salt and black pepper. Pile back into the skins, dot the last of the cheese over, and return to the oven for a good fifteen minutes, until piping hot.

　　Tender