This classic of la cuisine grandmère did not come to Cakebread Cellars via anyone’s French grandmother. We learned it from Rich Collins, who introduced endive to the United States when he began cultivating it commercially in California in the 1980s, as a young man barely out of college. Naturally, he calls his product California endive, not Belgian endive, and he has almost single-handedly built an American audience for this shapely chicory. We have watched Rich’s company, California Vegetable Specialties, grow exponentially, and we use his flawless endives year round in hors d’oeuvres and salads. Make endives au jambon—braised endives wrapped with ham and baked in béchamel sauce—on a blustery winter night, and bring it straight to the table in its baking dish.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

　　12 large Belgian endives, root ends trimmed

　　1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

　　Kosher salt

　　2 teaspoons sugar

　　12 thin slices smoked ham

　　2 cups whole milk

　　1 bay leaf

　　2 tablespoons all-purpose fl our

　　1 1/2 cups grated Gruyère cheese

　　Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

　　Freshly ground white pepper

　　

Step 1

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a 12-inch skillet over moderate heat. Add the endives; they will fit snugly side by side. Add 1 cup water and the lemon juice. Season with salt to taste and sprinkle with the sugar. Cover with a round of parchment paper to keep the endives bathed in steam. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes, then turn the endives with tongs, re-cover with the parchment, and continue cooking until you can insert a knife easily, about 20 minutes longer. Set aside until cool.

　　

Step 2

Gently squeeze each endive to remove excess moisture, then wrap each in a slice of ham. Place in a single layer in a 9 by 13-inch baking dish.

　　

Step 3

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

　　

Step 4

Put the milk and bay leaf in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to low. In another small saucepan, melt the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons butter over low heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes to eliminate the raw flour taste. Slowly add the hot milk, whisking constantly. Simmer until smooth and slightly thickened. (It will be thin.) Remove from the heat. Stir in 1/2 cup of the cheese. Season with nutmeg and white pepper. Remove the bay leaf.

　　

Step 5

Pour the sauce evenly over the wrapped endives. Sprinkle the remaining 1 cup cheese on top. Bake until hot throughout and bubbly, about 25 minutes, then place the dish under a broiler and broil until the surface is lightly browned. Let rest for 15 minutes, then serve.

　　

Step 6

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay or another white wine with lush texture.

　　The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook