Most closely associated with Greece, this is seen throughout the Eastern Mediterranean, and it remains a standard. It works equally well with whole eggs or yolks, but it is far prettier when you use yolks only. It’s a simple sauce, not meant to be especially elegant, but quite flavorful. Perfect with steamed green vegetables.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 1 cup

　　4 egg yolks or 2 whole eggs

　　1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

　　1 cup warm chicken or other stock, preferably homemade (pages 160–163)

　　Pinch of cayenne

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　

Step 1

Beat the egg yolks in a bowl until light and foamy (with an electric mixer, about a minute; by hand, 2 or 3). Slowly add the lemon juice, still beating. Gradually add the stock, still beating, followed by the cayenne.

　　

Step 2

Transfer to a small saucepan and place over low heat. Cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens slightly (it will not be super thick) and is hot, just a few minutes. Do not boil. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then use immediately.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.