The hefts of lamb, perfumed with aromatics and roasted over a wood fire, speak of a primordial innocence. Make a feast of them. Bake some pettole (page 153) and offer a great wedge of young pecorino and a jug of honest red wine.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　3 tablespoons good red wine vinegar

　　1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 tablespoon fine sea salt

　　1 small, dried red chile pepper, crushed, or 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon dried chile flakes

　　2 fat cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

　　1 large branch of rosemary

　　1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted and crushed

　　4 pounds lamb, cut from the leg into 3-inch chunks

　　Dry white wine

　　

Step 1

In a small saucepan, combine all the elements save the lamb and the wine and heat the mixture, removing it from the flame before the oil reaches the boil. Cover the pot and permit the aromatics to infuse the oil for 1/2 hour or so.

　　

Step 2

Place the lamb in a large, noncorrosive bowl and pour the perfumed oil over it, massaging it into all sides of the lamb. Cover the lamb and let it rest while you build a wood fire.

　　

Step 3

Skewer the perfumed lamb onto well-soaked grapevine twigs, olive wood twigs, thick branches of rosemary, or wood or metal skewers and roast it over red and white embers, turning the skewers and basting the lamb with a few drops of white wine now and then, until the meat is crusted outside and still very pink inside. Present the lamb, on its skewers, over 2 or 3 just-sautéed frittelle di fagioli bianchi (page 154), a fine sop for the luscious juices.

　　A Taste of Southern Italy