I go apple picking every year, and I’m always amazed by how easily you can taste the difference between varieties right off the tree. So when I work with apples, I try to capture those flavors. This soup reminds me of mulled cider but lighter and fresher.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 on it¿s own or 10 as part of fourplay

　　

For the Soup

3 small McIntosh apples

　　1 1/2 cups (360g) water

　　1 1/2 cups (360g) apple cider

　　Grated zest and juice of 1/4 lemon

　　2/3 cup (130g) sugar

　　1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

　　1 cinnamon stick

　　2 black peppercorns

　　1/2 nutmeg, cracked

　　1 whole clove

　　1 star anise

　　(makes about 3 1/2 cups)

　　

For the Cider Vinegar Gelée

1/4 cup (60g) rice vinegar or champagne vinegar

　　3 teaspoons powdered gelatin (or 13.5g sheet gelatin; see page 276)

　　1 1/2 cups (360g) apple cider

　　

For the Gnocchi

Coarse salt

　　1 large sweet potato

　　Scant 2/3 cup (80g) all-purpose flour

　　3 tablespoons (37g) sugar

　　1 large egg, beaten

　　

To Serve

Crème fraîche

　　Apple Tempura (page 261)

　　

For the Soup

Step 1

Core and chop the apples. Put them in a large saucepan with the water, cider, lemon juice, and sugar. Tie the lemon zest, vanilla seeds and pod, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, nutmeg, clove, and star anise in a piece of cheesecloth and add to the pan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer until the apples break down, about 1 hour.

　　

Step 2

Remove the cheesecloth sachet and strain the soup through a fine strainer, pushing down on the solids. Line a strainer with at least 4 layers of cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Strain the soup again and put in the refrigerator overnight to clarify.

　　

For the Cider Vinegar Gelée

Step 3

Run a 9 x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet under water and shake off the excess. Line the damp pan neatly with plastic wrap.

　　

Step 4

Put the vinegar in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over the surface. Let sit for at least 1 minute. Microwave for 30 seconds or heat gently in a saucepan until melted.

　　

Step 5

Stir the gelatin into the cider. Strain through a fine strainer. Pour into the baking sheet and refrigerate until set, about 4 hours.

　　

For the Gnocchi

Step 6

Heat the oven to 375°F or 350°F on convection.

　　

Step 7

Tear off a piece of aluminum foil and make a bed of coarse salt in the center. Set the potato on the salt, wrap tightly, and roast until the potato is very soft, about 1 1/2 hours. Unwrap. When the potato is cool enough to handle, peel it and put the flesh through a food mill.

　　

Step 8

Line a strainer with several layers of cheesecloth. Put the potato puree in the strainer, cover with cheesecloth, and set over a bowl. Put a weight on it and let sit for at least 1 hour to get rid of the excess liquid.

　　

Step 9

Taste the puree for salt. Put it in a bowl and make a well in the center. Add the flour, sugar, and 3 tablespoons of the egg. Mix together to make a smooth dough. Transfer to a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch opening (you do not need a tip).

　　

To Serve

Step 10

Pour the soup into a saucepan and warm it. Cut the gelée into small cubes.

　　

Step 11

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Reduce the heat so you have an active simmer. Use one hand to pipe the gnocchi batter and your other hand to cut off 3/4-inch lengths with a pair of scissors or a paring knife into the water. Cook, stirring gently, until the gnocchi rise to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and put in small bowls.

　　

Step 12

Ladle the warm soup over the gnocchi and garnish with a spoonful of crème fraîche and a few cubes of the gelée. Serve right away, with the tempura on the side.

　　

make it simpler

Step 13

You could serve the soup with just the gnocchi or just the tempura.

　　Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book.Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__