The classic Indian spinach dish saag aloo, where spinach and potatoes are added to spiced and softened onions, is often cooked a while longer than I would like it to be. Authentically, the spinach goes in before the potatoes, so that it makes an impromptu sauce. Delicious. But I sometimes make it less than classically, keeping the spinach almost whole and adding it last, so that it comes to the table singing brightly, more as an ingredient than a “sauce.”

　　

Ingredients

enough for 4 as a side dish, 2 as a main dish, perhaps with warm Indian breads

　　potatoes – 1 pound (500g)

　　a large onion

　　vegetable oil or melted butter – 2 tablespoons

　　garlic – 2 fat cloves

　　a small green chile

　　ginger – a 3/4-inch (2cm) lump

　　black mustard seeds – half a teaspoon

　　turmeric – half a teaspoon

　　spinach – 1 pound (450g)

　　the juice of half a lemon, probably less

　　

Step 1

Scrub the potatoes, cut them into large pieces, then either boil in deep, salted water or steam until tender. Drain and set aside.

　　

Step 2

Peel and finely slice the onion. Warm the vegetable oil or butter in a large pan, then add the onion and cook until soft and just starting to color. Finely chop the garlic, chile, and ginger and stir them in with the mustard seeds and turmeric. Continue cooking briefly, stirring the onion and spices regularly so they do not burn.

　　

Step 3

Add the cooked and drained potatoes and a wineglass of water. Bring to a boil and simmer for four or five minutes, until any “crustings” of onion and spices stuck on the pan have dissolved into the liquid. Increase the heat so that the liquid bubbles almost to nothing and the potatoes are starting to take on some of the color and flavor of the spices, then add the spinach—thoroughly washed and trimmed of its toughest stalks. Season generously with salt and a little ground black pepper.

　　

Step 4

Once the spinach has wilted and is bright green, check the seasoning, squeeze over a little lemon juice, and eat.

　　Tender