Jocelyne Akoun (see page 28) also served me meatballs with tomato sauce for Friday night dinner, a typical Sephardic dish for the eve of the Sabbath. I had found centuries-old recipes for these almondeguilles or albondigas, but without tomato sauce. For me, the post–Columbian Exchange marriage of tomatoes and meatballs greatly enhances the flavor of this dish!

　　

Ingredients

about 2 cups sauce, about 18 meatballs

　　

TOMATO SAUCE

4 pounds fresh tomatoes, or two 28-ounce cans whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, chopped

　　1/4 cup olive oil

　　8 cloves garlic, minced

　　Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

　　1 teaspoon ground cumin

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, basil, or parsley, or 2 tablespoons dried herbes de Provence

　　

MEATBALLS

6-inch section of a baguette, cut into pieces

　　1 pound ground beef

　　1 medium onion, finely diced

　　3 large cloves garlic, diced

　　1 bunch of fresh cilantro, finely chopped (at least 1 cup)

　　2 large eggs

　　Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

　　1 tablespoon ground cumin

　　1 tablespoon sweet paprika

　　1 cup semolina

　　Vegetable oil for frying

　　

Step 1

To make the sauce, if using fresh tomatoes, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop in the tomatoes and leave for a minute. Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the tomatoes, and, when cool, peel off the skin.

　　

Step 2

Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Add the tomatoes (fresh or canned), the garlic, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, the cumin, and the herbs. Simmer over slow to medium heat for about 30 minutes, until the sauce is thickened and well reduced.

　　

Step 3

To make the meatballs, soak the bread in a bowl of water for a few minutes, then remove from the bowl and squeeze to remove as much water as possible. Cut up the baguette, and gently mix in a large bowl with the beef, onion, garlic, cilantro, eggs, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, cumin, and paprika. Dip your hands into cold water, and shape the meat mixture into little rounds the size of golf balls.

　　

Step 4

Put the semolina in a wide bowl, and roll the meatballs in it. Heat about an inch of vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Brown the meatballs, and drain them on paper towels.

　　

Step 5

Heat the tomato sauce, add the meatballs, and simmer about 15 minutes, or until the meatballs are cooked through.

　　Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous