Active Time

　　45 min

　　Total Time

　　12 1/2 hr

　　Spumoni trumps all others as the ideal frozen treat: It's richer than gelato, lighter than ice cream, and smoother than frozen custard. The inspiration for this classic flavor combination came from L & B Spumoni Gardens, in Brooklyn, a favorite spot for this tricolor treat.

　　

Ingredients

6 cups whole milk

　　8 large egg yolks

　　1 1/4 cups sugar

　　1/2 cup cornstarch

　　1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, divided

　　1/2 teaspoon pure almond extract

　　2 drops green food coloring

　　1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process)

　　2/3 cup whole blanched almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped

　　1/2 cup unsalted shelled pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped

　　Equipment: an ice cream maker

　　

Step 1

Bring milk to a simmer in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat. Whisk together yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Whisk in milk, then transfer mixture to saucepan.

　　

Step 2

Bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly, then boil, whisking constantly, 2 minutes. Immediately strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl. Divide custard among 3 bowls. To make almond base, whisk 1/2 teaspoon vanilla into 1 bowl; for pistachio base, whisk almond extract and food coloring into another bowl; for chocolate base, whisk cocoa and remaining 1/2 teaspoon vanilla into third bowl.

　　

Step 3

Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Chill custards, surfaces covered with parchment paper (to prevent a skin from forming), until cold, at least 6 hours.

　　

Step 4

Freeze each custard in ice cream maker, 1 batch at a time (white, then green, then brown). Fold almonds into vanilla custard, then fold pistachios into green custard. Transfer to a shallow 2-quart container or 3 smaller containers and put in freezer to firm up, about 4 hours.

　　Cooks' notes:

　　•Custards can be chilled up to 1 day.

　　•Spumoni can be made 3 days ahead.