Of all the flavors that seem to bring out the rest of the cabbage family’s earthy greenness, few work as effectively as those of Southeast Asia. Ginger, green onion, and garlic have a natural affinity with chlorophyll-rich vegetables of any sort, but the saltiness of the fish sauces with which Thai and Vietnamese cooks season their food does much for cabbage leaves. I often serve this with roast duck, which appreciates such seasoning, or as a side order for a mushroom stir-fry hot with chiles and soy.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 2 as a side dish

　　Chinese greens or small cabbage leaves – 12 stems or small leaves

　　garlic – 2 large cloves

　　ginger – a thumb-sized piece

　　green onions – 6

　　peanut oil – 2 tablespoons

　　nam pla (Thai fish sauce) – a tablespoon

　　

Step 1

Bring a saucepan of deep water to a boil and salt it lightly. Wash the greens thoroughly. Peel the garlic and ginger, finely chop the garlic, and shred the ginger into matchsticklike strips. Trim the green onions and cut each into two or three.

　　

Step 2

Warm the oil in a shallow pan or wok. Toss the garlic, ginger, and green onions in the oil until deep gold, verging on being lightly browned and fragrant. Drop the greens, whole or shredded as you wish, into the boiling water. Leave for only a minute or so before draining. Pour the fish sauce in with the garlic and ginger—it will spit and sizzle—then toss with the greens and eat.

　　Tender