Though I’m reluctant to use out-of-season, commercially produced fresh tomatoes in a sauce, tomatoes from hothouses are a decent alternative. I sometimes dice up such a tomato for a quick skillet sauce, where the texture and color of the flesh are enjoyable, giving a dish acidity and freshness. A good example is the Sauce of Anchovies, Capers, and Fresh Tomatoes on page 91. Here is an even simpler one, for which a ripe market tomato will do, even in winter. Try this simple sauce with Shrimp and Tomato Ravioli (page 182), or tagliatelle, or capellini.

　　

Ingredients

　　

Step 1

For 1 1/2 pound of pasta, dice up a cup or so of tomato pieces (without seeds—or skin, if you are willing to peel the tomatoes). Slice 3 plump garlic cloves. Shred 2 tablespoons of fresh basil.

　　

Step 2

Toast the garlic slices in 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil for 1 minute in a fairly large skillet. Scatter in the diced tomato, sprinkle on a pinch of salt and a pinch of peperoncino, and toss the pieces for 1 more minute, just barely cooking them. Turn off the heat and stir in the basil leaves and the cooked pasta with 3 or 4 tablespoons of the pasta water. Toss all, then add grated cheese—Parmigiano-Reggiano, Grana Padano, or Pecorino Romano.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.