Dried porcini are expensive, but even a small handful added to a soup will bring with it a wave of smoky, almost beefy notes. A general instruction with parsnip soup is to prevent the vegetables coloring, presumably to keep the soup pale, but I suggest the opposite. You want the parsnips to cook to a gentle golden color before you add the stock; that way the soup will have a deeper flavor and a color reminiscent of heather honey.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 6

　　dried porcini mushrooms – a handful

　　onions – 2 medium

　　olive oil – 3 tablespoons

　　a large tablespoon of butter

　　parsnips – 1 1/4 pounds (600g; 2 large ones)

　　light stock – 5 cups (1.2 liters)

　　a rib of celery, chopped

　　garlic – a plump clove, peeled and squashed

　　

For the Porcini Toasts

dried porcini mushrooms – a handful

　　the leaves from a small bunch of parsley

　　a small clove of garlic

　　walnuts – a handful, chopped

　　butter – 4 tablespoons (50g)

　　interesting bread – 6 pieces, toasted

　　

Step 1

Soak the porcini in about 1 1/4 cups (300ml) warm water for thirty minutes.

　　

Step 2

Peel the onions, chop them coarsely, and put in a heavy-bottomed pan with the oil and butter. Cook until soft and translucent, stirring regularly. Peel the parsnips and cut them into large chunks. Add them to the pan and let them color lightly on all sides. They need to be evenly but gently toasted—a pale honey gold rather than mahogany brown. This will take seven to ten minutes with the occasional bit of stirring.

　　

Step 3

Pour in the stock, then add the celery, garlic, the porcini, and their soaking water. Season and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat so that the soup simmers merrily for about forty minutes.

　　

Step 4

This is one of those soups that are best eaten smoothly puréed, so push it all through the blender until smooth. Check the seasoning; it may need more salt and pepper. Serve with the toasts below, if you wish.

　　

Step 5

To make the toasts, soak the porcini in warm water for half an hour. Squeeze dry, then chop together with the parsley and garlic. Stir in the walnuts. Melt the butter in a small pan, add the mixture, and stir until warm and fragrant. Spoon onto the pieces of toast and float them on your soup.

　　Tender