Your family will love this fresh flavored purée and won’t guess that it was made from what some consider scraps-the stubs from asparagus stalks and the thick green tops of leeks. And if you hate to throw away tasty, usable food, as I do, you will feel virtuous. The stubs of fresh, tender, skinny asparagus are best for this-don’t even bother if the stubs are dry, white, and woody. Likewise, use only fresh, flexible leek greens here-it’s OK if the leaves are firm and thick but not if they’re wilted, old, or hard as leather.

　　

Ingredients

for about 2 cups of sauce

　　1 cup asparagus stubs

　　Four 5-inch-long pieces of leek green, top and outer layers

　　4 or 5 scallion greens, top and outer leaves (fresh trimmings only)

　　4 large garlic cloves, peeled

　　1 large onion, cut into large chunks

　　2 to 3 cups water

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

　　1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

　　1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　3 tablespoons (packed) coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves

　　Boiling pasta cooking water

　　

Step 1

Rinse the asparagus stubs and the leek and scallion tops well. Cut off any wilted or bruised parts. Rap each asparagus stub with a heavy knife handle or a small skillet to crush it a bit and open the inner layers. If a good whack doesn’t mash it, throw that one away!

　　

Step 2

Put the stubs, greens, garlic, and onion in a 2-quart saucepan and pour in 2 cups of water. There should be plenty to cover the vegetables; add more if necessary. Add the oil, salt, and peppercorns and bring the water to a boil. Cover the pot, adjust the heat to maintain a low bubbling boil, and cook for an hour. Lower the heat if the water’s evaporating too fast—the vegetables should cook in water the whole time.

　　

Step 3

Uncover after an hour, and boil off the water almost completely. Before there’s absolutely none left, turn down the heat and stir as the last visible moisture evaporates, but don’t let the soft vegetables stick to the pot or burn.

　　

Step 4

Turn all the vegetables into the food processor and purée them thoroughly, scraping down the sides as necessary. If there are vegetable fibers that haven’t broken down that mar the texture of the sauce (there may not be any), strain through a sieve. Return the sauce to the processor bowl, drop in the parsley and basil, and purée again. Taste and adjust seasonings.

　　

Step 5

Reheat before using; thin with boiling pasta water to a consistency you like. Store for several days in the refrigerator, or freeze for several months in airtight containers.

　　

Good For . . .

Step 6

Dressing and filling ravioli

　　

Step 7

A base to a vegetable risotto

　　

Step 8

A sauce for poached zucchini or asparagus

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.