Modern pasty recipes, especially those in the more touristy enclaves of Britain’s farthest southern county, stretch the recipe almost as far as Titus, swapping beef for pork, the rutabaga for apple, even daring to crimp the finished turnover on the top instead of at the side. I make one without meat, in which I use goat cheese and thyme along with the usual starchy filling of potato and rutabaga. It is filling, yet somehow soft and gentle, too.

　　

Ingredients

makes 6

　　the pastry recipe on page 490

　　

For the Filling

leeks – 2

　　butter – a thick slice

　　rutabaga – 7 ounces (200g)

　　potatoes – 14 ounces (400g)

　　the leaves of a bushy sprig of thyme, chopped

　　goat cheese – 8 ounces (250g)

　　

Step 1

Cut the leeks in half lengthwise, then into thin slices. Let soften in the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Placing a layer of wax paper over the top, then covering with a lid will encourage them to steam a little and stop them coloring too quickly.

　　

Step 2

Peel the rutabaga and the potatoes, dice them, and boil in salted water for ten minutes. Drain.

　　

Step 3

When the leeks are soft, mix them with the rutabaga and potatoes and season generously with black pepper and chopped thyme. Crumble in the goat cheese. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

　　

Step 4

Divide the pastry into six equal pieces. Roll each piece into a disk about 7 1/2 inches (18cm) in diameter (I find a plate useful here). Brush the edges with beaten egg and milk, then put a pile of the filling on each disk. Fold the dough over to make a semicircle, sealing and crimping the edges tightly. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush the pasties with beaten egg and milk, then pierce the crust of each pastry a couple of times to make steam holes. Bake for fifteen minutes, then decrease the heat to 350°F (180°C) and bake for forty-five minutes or so, until golden.

　　Tender