Like asparagus, leeks produce a particularly subtle risotto. The crucial point is not to let them color. Cook them over low heat, with a lid on if you wish, or maybe with a piece of wax paper on top. Either way they must not brown.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 2

　　medium leeks – 2

　　butter – about 4 tablespoons (50g), plus a walnut-sized lump to finish

　　arborio or other risotto rice – 1 2/3 cups (300g)

　　dry vermouth such as Noilly Prat – a glass

　　chicken stock – 4 cups (a liter), hot

　　thin slices of pancetta – 6

　　grated Parmesan – 3 tablespoons, plus more to finish

　　

Step 1

Wash the leeks thoroughly, splitting them down their length and rinsing under a running cold tap, then slice them finely. Melt the butter in a wide, high-sided pan over low heat and add the leeks. Let them soften without coloring, stirring from time to time.

　　

Step 2

Stir in the rice, then pour in the Noilly Prat. Let the mixture boil until the alcohol has evaporated, then add in the first ladleful of hot stock. Continue stirring, adding the stock when the rice has absorbed almost all of the previous ladleful, until the rice is plump, tender, and yet has a little bite left in it—a process that will take about twenty minutes. Meanwhile, broil the pancetta, or cook it in a nonstick frying pan (no oil necessary), until truly crisp. Cut into pieces about the size of a large postage stamp, leaving a couple of slices whole. Fold the cut pieces into the risotto.

　　

Step 3

Stir in the walnut-sized lump of butter, adding the 3 tablespoons of Parmesan as you go. Divide between warm dishes and finish with a piece of pancetta and more grated Parmesan.

　　Tender