There is much comfort, warmth, solace, and satiety in a bowl of starch, especially in cold weather. This one has the benefit of stock too, providing either a simple supper or an accompaniment to a roast.

　　

Ingredients

small, waxy potatoes – about 5 per person

　　a little peanut or light olive oil

　　a little butter for greasing the dish and a few knobs on top

　　bacon or pancetta – about 2 thin slices per person

　　sage leaves – 1 per person

　　stock – a good chicken one, but bouillon will do

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). If the fine, pale skin doesn’t bother you, there is no need to peel the potatoes, but you should give them a good rub with your thumb (I must say, I invariably peel mine, or at least scrape them well, but others think I am being persnickety). Whatever, you need to slice them no thicker than 1/8 inch (3mm). Warm enough oil to cover the bottom of a frying pan, then fry the sliced potatoes in it just long enough to color them lightly on both sides. Lift them out onto paper towels.

　　

Step 2

Generously butter a shallow baking dish or roasting pan. Cut the bacon into pieces about the size of a postage stamp. Layer the potatoes in the buttered dish, scattering the bacon, sage, and a grinding of salt and black pepper over them as you go. Dot the surface with a few little knobs of butter, then pour over enough stock to cover. Bake for about an hour, until the potatoes are soft enough to crush between your fingers.

　　Tender