A marrow for supper will generally coincide with the leaves turning on the trees, the first early morning mists, new school uniform. Their bulk and their bargain-basement price ensure that they will make a cheap supper. For this, we love them. This filling—earthy, sloppy, and much nicer than ground meat—is good for pumpkin too.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 4

　　small brown or green lentils (French lentils are perfect) – 1 cup (200g)

　　a medium-sized marrow (or pumpkin)

　　olive oil

　　shallots – 2 large, or an onion

　　garlic – 2 large cloves

　　tomatoes – 6 medium, or 20 cherry tomatoes

　　chile sauce, such as harissa

　　green leaves, such as spinach or chard – 2 handfuls

　　grated Parmesan – 2 tablespoons

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Bring a pan of water to a boil in which to cook the lentils. Add the lentils to the water and let simmer, I think rather vigorously, until you have tender lentils. On this occasion they should be soft rather than al dente.

　　

Step 2

Cut the marrow in half lengthwise but do not peel it; the rind will give it some support. Scoop out the core and put both halves into a roasting pan, then brush with olive oil and put in the preheated oven. Bake the marrow until tender and translucent—about twenty minutes—then remove from the oven. You could, alternatively, steam it.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, peel and slice the shallots and garlic and soften them in a saucepan with three tablespoons of olive oil. Chop the tomatoes, peeling them if they have tough skins (dunk the whole tomato into boiling water, then peel off the skin after a few seconds), and add them to the pan. Let them cook a while, till they are soft and mushy, then stir in your chile sauce. I use a couple of teaspoons of harissa here. The amount will depend on which chile sauce you have around and how hot you like your lentils to be. Remember that the marrow will soften the heat. Pour in just enough water (I use barely a cupful) to make a slushy sauce and be generous with the salt and black pepper.

　　

Step 4

Drain the cooked lentils, then stir them into the onion and chile sauce. Tear the spinach or chard leaves into small pieces and stir them into the lentils. Bring to the boil, then cover and let simmer over low heat until the greens are silky soft. Spoon the lentil mixture into the hollows in the marrow, scatter with the grated Parmesan, cover with aluminum foil or wax paper, and bake for twenty minutes.

　　Tender