Eventually, possibly toward the end of your meal, you reach the point where the salty, herbal juices from the meat mingle with the sweet creaminess of those from the parsnips, a moment of intense pleasure. While winter was in its death throes, and the first white narcissi were starting to peak through the damp earth, I produced this for Sunday lunch with a leg of lamb spiked with tough old rosemary twigs. We passed round a bowl of winter chicory and watercress for everyone to take handfuls with which to clean the mixture of juices from their plates.

　　

Ingredients

enough for 4 to 6

　　parsnips – 1 pound (450g)

　　a tablespoon of butter

　　heavy cream – 1 1/4 cups (300ml)

　　whole milk – scant 1/2 cup (100ml)

　　thyme

　　a lump of Parmesan

　　breadcrumbs

　　

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Peel the parsnips and slice them thinly from stalk to tip. The slices should be only slightly thicker than 1/8 inch (3mm). Bring to a boil in deep, unsalted water, simmer for five to seven minutes, then drain carefully so that they don’t break up.

　　

Step 2

Butter a large ovenproof baking dish or roasting pan. Lay the sliced parsnips in the dish, neatly or hugger-mugger as the mood takes you. Mix the cream and milk in a pitcher and season with salt and pepper. Pull a tablespoon of thyme leaves from their stems and stir into the cream, then pour over the parsnips. Grate over enough Parmesan and breadcrumbs to cover the surface lightly. Bake for forty to fifty minutes, by which time it should be bubbling and golden.

　　Tender