In springtime, when farmers’ markets sell really fresh, locally grown asparagus—or if you’re lucky enough to pick spears in your own asparagus bed—cook them by the skillet method. You’ll find it concentrates the natural sweetness and subtle asparagus flavors that are at their peak for only a day or two. Butter and cheese are natural complements to asparagus, and here they both get a final delicious toasting. For details on how I trim asparagus—and a fine cooking method for the year-round spears that have been shipped to supermarkets—see the Scallion and Asparagus Salad recipe (page 35).

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　1/4 pound (1 stick) butter

　　1 1/2 pounds fresh asparagus, trimmed and peeled

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano

　　

Recommended Equipment

A 14-inch heavy-bottomed skillet with a cover

　　

Step 1

Melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat. When it is just starting to bubble, lay in the spears in a single layer, sprinkle with salt, and shake to roll the asparagus and coat them.

　　

Step 2

Cover the pan and let the spears cook and steam for 4 to 5 minutes (or more, if they are very thick), shaking them around now and then.

　　

Step 3

Uncover, raise the heat slightly, and continue to cook another 4 minutes or so, shaking frequently, until lightly caramelized. Lift the asparagus onto a warm platter. The butter left in the pan should be starting to color; if not, cook a bit more, and when browning starts, swirl the pan to spread the color.

　　

Step 4

Remove from the heat, and scatter the cheese around in the hot pan, swirling again to blend it into the browned butter. Pour the sauce over the asparagus and serve immediately.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.