Active Time

　　45 min

　　Total Time

　　1 1/2 hr

　　Ciuppin

　　Although many San Franciscans think the zesty fish stew known as cioppino was invented in their city, it can actually be traced back to Genoa — ciuppin is the Genoese term for "nice little bowl of soup." Almost any white-fleshed saltwater fish will do, as long as it's very fresh.

　　

Ingredients

Makes 6 servings

　　8 cups cold water

　　3 lb mixed small whole (1/4- to 3/4-lb) white-fleshed fish (such as black bass, branzino, daurade, red snapper, and rouget), cleaned and filleted with skin, reserving heads and bones for stock

　　2 thin carrots, thinly sliced

　　1 celery rib, thinly sliced

　　1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced, plus 1 large onion, chopped

　　1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

　　1 baguette

　　2 lb baby squid, cleaned

　　2 teaspoons salt

　　1 tablespoon olive oil

　　2 flat anchovy fillets, minced

　　2 garlic cloves, minced

　　1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried small hot red chile such as peperoncini or dried hot red pepper flakes

　　1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste

　　1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

　　1 cup dry white wine

　　

Make stock:

Step 1

Bring water to a simmer with reserved fish heads and bones, carrots, celery, sliced onion, and peppercorns in a wide heavy 6- to 8-quart pot, then simmer, uncovered, skimming foam as necessary, 30 minutes. Pour stock through a large sieve into a large bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids. (You will have about 6 cups stock.)

　　

Make toasts:

Step 2

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 325°F.

　　

Step 3

Cut baguette into 1/2-inch-thick slices, then arrange in 1 layer in an ungreased shallow baking pan. Bake until toasts are crisp and dry, 15 to 20 minutes.

　　

Make stew:

Step 4

Chop enough squid to measure 1/4 cup, then toss remaining whole squid with 3/4 teaspoon salt and set aside. Remove any pin bones from fish fillets with tweezers or needlenose pliers, then cut fillets diagonally into serving pieces and sprinkle with 3/4 teaspoon salt.

　　

Step 5

Cook chopped onion in oil with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in cleaned pot over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add anchovy, garlic, hot chile, and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add chopped squid and 1/2 cup parsley and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add wine and boil, stirring occasionally, until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup stock, then arrange whole squid in 1 layer in pot and then place fish fillets on top.

　　

Step 6

Add enough of remaining stock to just cover fish and cook over moderate heat, uncovered, until fillets are just cooked through, 2 to 5 minutes.

　　

Step 7

Serve stew over toasts in shallow soup plates and sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons parsley.