In an Arab culture born in the desert, dates have something of a sacred character. Considered the “bread of the desert,” they symbolize hospitality and are much loved and prestigious. You would find this dish at wedding parties. Some people find it too sweet, so you might prefer it, as I do, without the optional honey. The dates give it a slightly sticky texture. Use the semi-dried moist varieties from California or the Deglet Nour dates from Tunisia.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6 to 8

　　3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb

　　1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) butter or 1/2 cup sunflower oil

　　2 onions, finely chopped

　　1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

　　1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

　　Salt and plenty of black pepper

　　1 cinnamon stick

　　1 to 2 tablespoons clear honey (optional)

　　1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

　　1 3/4 cups dates, pitted

　　To garnish: 1/2 cup blanched almonds; 3 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional)

　　

Step 1

Trim any excess fat from the lamb and cut into 6 or 8 pieces. Heat the butter or 3 tablespoons oil in a large pan, put in the meat, and brown it lightly all over. Take out the meat, put in the onions and cook, stirring, until they begin to color. Stir in the saffron and ginger and return the meat to the pan. Add salt and pepper and the cinnamon stick. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender, turning the pieces occasionally.

　　

Step 2

Take out two pieces of meat in order to make room in the pan, stir in the honey, if using, and the ground cinnamon and more pepper (it needs plenty to counterbalance the sweetness). Move the meat around so the honey and cinnamon is spread around and then return the two pieces of meat. Cook until the sauce is reduced, turning the meat over as you do. Add the dates and cook 5 to 10 minutes more.

　　

Step 3

Fry the almonds in the remaining tablespoon of oil until lightly golden. Leave whole or coarsely chop, and sprinkle over the meat when serving, adding lightly toasted sesame seeds, if you like.

　　

variation

Step 4

Stuff the pitted dates with walnut halves. In this case, omit the almonds and sesame seeds.

　　Arabesque