Pineapples are grown all over Thailand and are commonly eaten freshly sliced at the end of a meal. We wanted a worthy finish to this complex meal, so we decided to put a slightly different spin on this classic ingredient.

　　Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 17 3/4 hr (includes chilling and freezing)

　　

Ingredients

Makes about 1 1/4 quarts

　　1 1/2 cups drained canned crushed pineapple in juice (from a 20-fl-oz can), reserving 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon juice

　　3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

　　2 teaspoons cornstarch

　　1 1/4 cups whole milk

　　2 large egg yolks

　　1/4 teaspoon vanilla

　　1 cup chilled heavy cream

　　Accompaniment: lacy rice noodle crisps

　　

Special Equipment

an instant-read thermometer; an ice cream maker

　　

Step 1

Bring pineapple, 1/2 cup reserved pineapple juice, and 1/2 cup sugar to a boil in a 2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until pineapple is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir together cornstarch and remaining tablespoon pineapple juice in a small bowl until cornstarch is dissolved, then add to pineapple mixture and simmer, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 1 minute.

　　

Step 2

Bring milk just to a boil in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart heavy saucepan. Whisk together yolks, remaining 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, and a large pinch of salt in a bowl, then add hot milk in a stream, whisking. Pour custard back into saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until custard registers 170 to 175°F on thermometer, 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately pour custard through a very fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, then stir in pineapple mixture and vanilla and cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Stir in cream, then chill custard, covered, until very cold, about 4 hours.

　　

Step 3

Freeze custard in ice cream maker. Transfer ice cream to an airtight container and put in freezer to harden, at least 12 hours.

　　Cooks' note:

　　Ice cream can be made 3 days ahead.