Ingredients

makes 1/2 cup

　　1/4 cup black sesame seeds

　　1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

　　1/2 teaspoon expeller-pressed vegetable oil

　　1 tablespoon sake

　　1 tablespoon mirin

　　1/4 cup Dashi (recipe follows), chicken stock, or water

　　

Dashi

5 dried black mushrooms

　　1 (1 × 4-inch) strip of kombu

　　3 tablespoons bonito flakes

　　(makes about 2 1/2 cups)

　　

Step 1

Toast the sesame seeds in a small sauté pan over medium heat, tossing frequently, until the seeds become fragrant and begin to pop. Transfer them to a plate and let them cool completely. Grind in 10-second increments in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder to a very fine paste, stirring the mixture, then grinding again, and repeating this process until the paste is completely smooth and glistening from the oil that has been released. This will take 3 to 5 minutes. (If the seeds are not ground into a very smooth paste, the sauce will be gray rather than deep black.) Transfer the paste to a small bowl, add the salt, and gradually whisk in the oil, sake, mirin, and dashi until smooth.

　　

Dashi

Step 2

Put 3 cups water and the mushrooms in a nonreactive saucepan and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low, cover, and cook at a very gentle simmer for 10 minutes. Add the kombu and simmer very gently for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the bonito flakes. Let steep, covered, for 8 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Discard the solids and use the broth as you would stock.

　　Cooking in the Moment